In South America people travel to Brazil for Ipanema, to Peru for Machu Pitchu, to Argentina for Iguasu. But what could be the reason to fly to Guyana? The unspoiled nature! Guyana has immense falls, vast tropical jungle and savanna with wildlife. Poor Guyana wants to be the eco-tourism destination in the future. Right now, it's the place for independent, experienced, brave travellers who don't mind visiting a country that some peolpe think is in Africa. Visitors are advised to avoid walking after dark, maintain alertness at all times and keep out of Georgetown's Tiger Bay area. Are you ready? The best route to come will be plane from Barbados, but there are also flights from Suriname and Trinidad. There were no money exchange facilities in the airport but there was announcement at the exit, that minibus fare to the town is 600 GYD. (1 USD=180 GYD). If you will arrive at the day time and not in a hurry you can find local minibus no. 42 for 150 GYD.
"Guyana" means "land of many rivers" and it is true. The Land has lack of good roads (they cover only the coastal area) but almost 1000km of navigable rivers. They form the main routes to the interior. But almost every tourist starts exploration from the capital city. Georgetown is nicest of three Guyana capital cities. The 19th-century wooden houses of Georgetown, are supported on stilts, and charming green boulevards laid out along the lines of the old Dutch canals give it a unique character. There are pretty colonial houses along the Main street, Disneyland-like City Hall (it is on my picture) and huge St George Cathedral to see (the last is reputedly the world's tallest wooden cathedral). Other places of interest: Museum of Guyana, which has exhibitions of excellent Guyanese paintings and sculpture and the neoclassic Parliament Building, built in 1833 with little-broken queen Victoria in the front.
What's really great:
A Big River Trip to Bartica. Bartica is small and safe town on the conjunction of Mazuruni and Essequibo rivers. Going there you must take from Georgetown minibus no. 34 to Parika. (200 GYD). On the way you will cross pontoon bridge on Demerara river - longest in the world (about 2 km long). From Parika there is ferry to Bartica three times a week, early morning (300 GYD - 5 hours). There are also speedboats waiting always (1000 GYD -5 quarters). It is better to take ferry on the way back (departure at 6 am - sharp!) when it works as banana boat - taking load of fruits and vegetables from riverside villages.
Sights:
Kaieteur Fall is main tourist attraction of Guyana. It is one of most impressive waterfalls in the world. Single drop, 250 meters high and 80 to 120 meters wide depending on season. Angel is four times higher but not as wide as Kaieteur. The fall is hidden in the jungle, far from human settlements and land access is very difficult.
Tour agencies in Georgetown like Shell Beach Adventures organize 4-days overland expeditions to the fall. Day one: truck to Meckdeci Camp. Day two: truck to Kangaruma. Day three: boat to Amatuk, then 3 hours hike and second boat to Tukiet. After that you have to climb 3 hours to the edge of the canyon. On the day four return by air to Georgetown. Typical price for that tour is 640 USD per person, although if you decide to take budget version it could be 480 USD. They provide transportation, food and hammock. Season starts in February. There is airfield so you can also fry there. Accommodations:
If you need luxury there is Le Meridien Pegasus Hotel - Guyana’s largest hotel. It has 132 rooms from standard to luxury. Pool, Bars, A la Carte Restaurant, Gym and all modern convenience - it is on my picture.
I stayed in centrally located Rima Guest House. It is clean, safe and worth to recommend. They provide mosquito nets, fan and towels. Rate for bed in double or triple room with communal bath is 10 USD. They can keep your luggage stored if you are going to the interior. As power cuts are common, it is advisable to bring a torch with you.Both hotels are located in the central area which is well-maintained, but the rest of the city is weathered and dilapidated. A profusion of flowering trees lend it the optimistic name 'Garden City of the Caribbean'.
Nightlife:
Before you will visit the club (see below) I suggest to visit Botanical Gardens - they are on the outskirts of the town, little run-down but still worth to see. You will find there Victorian bridges, pavilions, palms and lily ponds.
Entry is free. See lotus flowers on my picture - it is not scanned postcard! There are also Promenade Gardens in the city center -small but also full of tropical plants and flowers.Hangouts:
Jazz bars, clubs and discos are all close to Main St.
Guyana is probably the cheapest place to buy the rum – big bottle costs around 2,5 USD. Local beer brand: Banks, brandy, whisky, and delicious fruit punches are also on sale.Guyanese food is usually based on seafood or creole dishes like pepperpot, a spicy stew cooked in bitter cassava juice. Added to this are East Indian dishes such as curries and roti. Chinese food is also common.
Restaurants:
I was cooking food on my own, buying inexpensive products in the market. Old Stabroek Market, an imposing cast-iron building with a striking clocktower is in the centre. But Local people cautioned me against muggers in the market area so I did not go in. There is alternative place to buy fruits and grocery: much safer open-air Bourda Market - it is on the picture.
Other recommendations:
For those who decided to fly to the Kaieteur Fall by small plane from Georgetown Ogle city airport (15 min from city center): they offer circle flight GEO-Kaieteur-Orinduik-GEO (160 USD inclusive National Park entry fee). Orinduik Falls (I think they should be called: cascades) are on the Ireng River, which form the border with Brazil. The river crosses the savanna. Falls here are much lower - only 5 to 15 meters high, but very picturesque. It is possible to swim in the natural pool below the fall. It is great pleasure but take your mosquito repellent with you!
